Birthday Surf

Heat escaped from my skin as steam as I changed from my clothes to my wet suit. Ice covered the windows of the cars parked overnight down the street from the beach. The tempature may have been just above freezing, but it was sunny, there were waves and I didn't have to be at work; I couldn't have picked a better way to start my birthday than a sunrise surf session at Bolinas Beach. 

Bolinas, probably better known for its eccentric residents than its waves with the general public, is the premier northern california long board spot north of Santa Cruz. With waves generally in the knee to chest-high range, three different spots to surf, and a surf shop just down the street, it is a great place for all ages and all experience levels.

 "Dig, dig, dig," I told myself as I tried to catch another wave. The surf was small, waist high at best; I had to work hard to catch anything. I made one last two-armed stroke and felt my board start to slide down the face of the wave. Putting my hands on top of the board I pushed up, brought my knees forward, set my feet shoulder width and then stood up. 

I've been surfing now for just a little over a year and a half, and the thrill of being able to stand atop an eight and a half foot epoxy board the is gliding atop the ocean hasn't worn off yet. I'm at a good spot on the board, too forward and the nose of the board would dip into the water and I'd lose my balance and too far back I'd stall, and was able to get a great view of the snow-covered ridge behind Stinson Beach. There aren't too many times where one gets to surf and see snow at the same time, at least in Northern California. 

Located northwest of Stinson Beach, and just south of Point Reyes National Seashore, Bolinas is an hour and fifteen minute drive from Sonoma. The trek out to west Marin, though, doesnt feel quite that long. From the mustard fields between Sonoma and Petaluma, to the fog draped nicasio valley, to Bolinas lagoon, it is one of the most beautiful drives in the Bay Area.